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諾鄧,一部鹽業(yè)貿(mào)易的興衰史——云南云龍縣諾鄧古村自助游攻略(2015年修訂版)

發(fā)布時(shí)間:2013年11月21日 編輯:大元 訪問(wèn):81731 評(píng)論:39條 發(fā)表評(píng)論! 糾錯(cuò)!
所屬地區(qū): 云南 大理 適合人群: 所有人 出游難度: 輕松
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可信標(biāo)志: (本攻略已通過(guò)所有細(xì)節(jié)核實(shí),讀者可放心參考。)
攻略標(biāo)簽: 傳統(tǒng)村落 諾鄧 諾鄧鹽 諾鄧火腿 白族 遙遠(yuǎn)的諾鄧 舌尖上的中國(guó) 太極鎖水 ◎切換到圖文完整版

  本村落已列入中華人民共和國(guó)四部局(住建部、文化部、財(cái)政部、文物局)共同組織評(píng)選的中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)村落名錄。遠(yuǎn)方網(wǎng)與國(guó)家四部局聯(lián)合發(fā)起全國(guó)“保護(hù)性旅行”號(hào)召,倡議游客與旅游從業(yè)者保護(hù)各類遺產(chǎn),實(shí)現(xiàn)文明負(fù)責(zé)任的旅行。點(diǎn)擊查看更多細(xì)節(jié) http://ctcl.likefar.com/ 

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(諾鄧民居錯(cuò)落有致,前后人家之間樓院相接  作者:王呵呵)
  說(shuō)起云南麗江的大研古鎮(zhèn),也許知道的人很多。然而,談起大理云龍縣的諾鄧,可能知其名者甚少,了解其歷史的更不多。諾鄧是一顆埋藏在深山的有歷史價(jià)值的明珠?!爸Z鄧”一詞是白語(yǔ)的譯音,意思是“有老虎的山坡”。這個(gè)“有老虎的山坡”在古代可是個(gè)了不得的地方,它的歷史可謂源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng)。唐代樊綽的《蠻書》中已經(jīng)對(duì)諾鄧有明確記載,此書的成書年代在唐懿宗咸通三年,即公元862年。以此推算,諾鄧至今至少應(yīng)該有1140年以上的歷史。這就是說(shuō),這里最遲在唐朝就己經(jīng)鑿井制鹽,是一個(gè)典型的以鹽井為生存依托的村落。
  諾鄧出產(chǎn)的鹽,鹽質(zhì)非常好,古時(shí)在滇西久負(fù)盛名。正是由于有了優(yōu)質(zhì)的鹽,諾鄧很快成為被史家所稱嘆的“茶馬古道”上聯(lián)綴的一顆耀眼明珠。據(jù)有關(guān)史料記載,鼎盛時(shí)期諾鄧村中常住戶達(dá)400多戶,近3000人,另有行商、工匠、雜藝等數(shù)千流動(dòng)人口。當(dāng)時(shí)的諾鄧真可謂一個(gè)不能令人小虎覷的經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展亮點(diǎn),它的東邊通向大理、昆明,南面直至保山、騰沖,西接六庫(kù)、片馬,北連蘭坪、麗江。

(因交通不便,這里依舊靠馬馱運(yùn)貨物賺錢  作者:Mr.Rock)
  不難想象,1000多年前這個(gè)小小山村云集四方商賈,百業(yè)興旺昌盛。正是由于有了當(dāng)年的繁榮興盛,歷經(jīng)千年風(fēng)霜雨雪的諾鄧沉淀下了眾多的歷史文物古跡。順著印烙著深深馬蹄痕的青石板道拾級(jí)而上,你可以看到1000多年前為諾鄧先民們?cè)旄5哪强诠爬消}井,也可以看到當(dāng)年由朝廷欽命、威鎮(zhèn)一方的五井提舉司留下的衙門(舊址)。另有玉皇閣道教建筑群、財(cái)神殿、龍王廟、萬(wàn)壽宮、貞節(jié)牌坊和伸向遠(yuǎn)方的古驛道等……無(wú)一不向后人詮釋著當(dāng)年這里的輝煌和顯赫。
  諾鄧也是一座難得的白族民居建筑歷史博物館。從南詔時(shí)期開始,由于鹽業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)的繁榮,有力促進(jìn)了諾鄧村落文化的發(fā)展。這個(gè)小小的山村雖然經(jīng)歷了1000多年的時(shí)光洗禮,但一直保持著四個(gè)不變:以“諾鄧”冠名的村名不變,村中居民以白族為唯一族種不變,習(xí)用語(yǔ)言長(zhǎng)期使用白語(yǔ)不變,村民賴以生存的產(chǎn)業(yè)長(zhǎng)期以制鹽為主不變。這些不變,在云南省村落發(fā)展史上實(shí)屬罕見(jiàn)。走在青石鋪就的村道上,你仿佛走進(jìn)了一座白族民居建筑歷史博物館?!叭揭徽毡凇?、“四合五天井”,這里的民居建筑式樣和特點(diǎn)基本與大理地區(qū)的白族民居相同。當(dāng)然,相同之中也有不同,那就是由于諾鄧的地理高差突出,最低的地方海拔為 1900米,而最高處的海拔則有2200多米,如此大的高差帶來(lái)了民居建筑必須依山而建。于是,諾鄧所獨(dú)有的建筑特色就自然出現(xiàn)了。

(《舌尖上的中國(guó)》讓諾鄧火腿名聲大噪,其腌制火腿最重要的調(diào)料是諾鹽  作者:謝罡)
  這里的每一處院落都巧妙利用山勢(shì)地形布局,一層空著一層往上走,錯(cuò)落有致,層次分明。站在諾鄧對(duì)面的山道上,抬眼一望,只見(jiàn)映人眼簾的民居建筑鱗次櫛比,前后人家之間樓院相接,往往是前面人家樓上的后門即通著后面人家的大院。據(jù)了解,保持完好、純粹白族風(fēng)格的院落如今大約還有近百處,主要是以明朝和清朝時(shí)期的居多。
  穿行在諾鄧,靜得出奇,偶爾留守的老人都懶得理會(huì)你的存在,也許逝去的太多又太遙遠(yuǎn),生存的壓力讓人們離開了家園。成也鹽業(yè),敗也鹽業(yè)。為了熬鹽的能源利用,過(guò)度的砍伐已使周邊盡是童山,只有村里殘留的大樹伴隨著大夫第、鹽務(wù)署、龍王廟、五課提舉司,告訴你一個(gè)始于漢代的鹽的傳奇。
  在村口那間屋子,就是諾鄧井舊址。如今僅有一口鹽井,周圍常年有水滲出,像塊沼澤地,在干一點(diǎn)的地方有白色鹽顆粒。
  山頂?shù)奈膹R武廟里,如今只剩下木構(gòu)框架,武廟成了小學(xué)生們做飯的廚房,諾鄧曾經(jīng)的人杰地靈又回到了山村文化的沙漠。與拆掉的文廟相比,玉皇閣依舊完整,登上樓閣,迎面相對(duì)的是對(duì)面山頂?shù)乃聫R。鹽業(yè)衰落了,村莊寂靜了,教育荒廢了,只有寺廟道觀還在守衛(wèi)著人們的祈望,孤獨(dú)而渺茫。

(黃永壽祖上傳下了不少寶物,家中自建博物館  作者:酒鬼色)
  一個(gè)300多人的小山村,每家每戶都有歷史背景和價(jià)值不斐的古董,家族先輩留下的手稿、工藝品,親手觸摸這些東西時(shí),才真切地感到文化的深厚。我曾在一家自稱是乾隆進(jìn)士后裔的家中見(jiàn)到雕刻精致的板壁紋飾和進(jìn)士大人使用過(guò)的大號(hào)雕花書案。書案被遺忘在偏僻的山村里幾百年,雕飾的色澤也一年年加深,現(xiàn)在看上去,已經(jīng)是純粹的灰黑色,炭化了一般,厚重而不失氣派。同樣沉重厚實(shí)的條案上放著一個(gè)隨便用膠泥粘合起來(lái)的碎瓷花瓶,看上去也是明代遺物。
  還有一種樹,也印象深刻,是大青樹。大青樹是諾鄧的一個(gè)地理標(biāo)志,要打聽(tīng)某家某戶,村里人會(huì)告訴你,從大青樹往哪哪走。這里的房子依山而建,巷道便借著山形七拐八繞,據(jù)說(shuō)從村口到最高處,一共有999級(jí)臺(tái)階。9是陽(yáng)數(shù)之極,中國(guó)人喜歡用99、999這類數(shù)字,表示多的意思。踩著一路的石階走來(lái),也真是累了,大青樹下有石桌、石凳,正好坐下休息。
  游歷在古鎮(zhèn),你會(huì)常常驚嘆歲月的積淀,牌坊、祠堂和大院里的每一塊精雕都藏著前輩流離的辛酸,把打拼天下的富庶與榮耀帶回鄉(xiāng)里,盡情展示。所以,每當(dāng)走進(jìn)江南的古鎮(zhèn)和徽州的村落,總是看到江南巨富們回到鄉(xiāng)梓的顯擺,感嘆華麗外表下的悵然。但是,走進(jìn)諾鄧,不會(huì)感到半點(diǎn)虛幻,你會(huì)看到了一種真實(shí)的從容,一種脫離了俗氣的時(shí)間之美,一首生于斯,長(zhǎng)于斯的鄉(xiāng)土富饒之詩(shī)!
(文字作者:勾六零

諾鄧四面環(huán)山,地處偏遠(yuǎn),古時(shí)進(jìn)京趕考需要走半年  作者:萬(wàn)有引力

一位老人在大青樹下閑坐  作者:茶館

五井提舉司衙門外遷,這里就演變成了黃氏家族私宅  作者:閑庭普洱茶

現(xiàn)在諾鄧的村民仍然用古法制鹽,它是諾鄧火腿不可或缺的調(diào)味料 作者:xy341

原來(lái)的萬(wàn)壽宮已是村民住處,仍留存有一塊明嘉靖時(shí)修繕的碑文  作者:萬(wàn)有引力

在南山頭看整個(gè)諾鄧  作者:茈湖雨衫

大青樹是村中心,村民們常在此喝茶聊天  作者:流浪的歌

遇到大公事,村里人都在外支灶做飯  作者:mafengwo

貢爺院是一戶楊姓人家,世代均系貢生出身  作者:林堅(jiān)

四合五天井是諾鄧最大的民宅,現(xiàn)已是客棧,圖為其中的老院子  作者:米綾瑪

典型的四合一天井的白族民居建筑 作者:佚名

鹽和火腿是大多數(shù)人對(duì)諾鄧的印象  作者:Mr.Rock

文廟的欞星門是滇西地區(qū)現(xiàn)存最大也是最古老的木牌坊  作者:萬(wàn)有引力

沒(méi)有了鹽,《舌尖上的中國(guó)》成為諾鄧的新招牌  作者:yyr

鹽曾是諾鄧的經(jīng)濟(jì)支柱,對(duì)面山上曾經(jīng)繁茂的植被因制鹽被砍伐  作者:Mr.Rock

諾鄧村內(nèi)多是石板路和臺(tái)階,不能通車輛  作者:流浪的歌

村東有一塊空地,是村中的活動(dòng)中心  作者:王呵呵

上面的房子是“五滴水”,雨水落到院子經(jīng)過(guò)層層瓦檐需要滴五滴  作者:王呵呵

諾鄧古村景點(diǎn)介紹


(北山上的民居建筑層層疊疊,號(hào)稱北山重樓  作者:Mr.Rock)
  諾鄧位于云南大理云龍縣城以北的深山里,是一個(gè)有著上千年歷史的白族村寨?!爸Z鄧”這個(gè)村名自唐代南詔時(shí)期以來(lái),近1100多年不變,堪稱地理史上的奇跡。該村曾因鹽業(yè)而發(fā)展,一度是滇西地區(qū)的經(jīng)濟(jì)重鎮(zhèn),解放后,海鹽大量開發(fā),諾鄧失去了鹽這個(gè)經(jīng)濟(jì)支柱,從此塵封于世?,F(xiàn)有著滇西最集中的明清古建筑群和明清文化遺存,保留完好的古村風(fēng)貌,原態(tài)原貌相當(dāng)完整,在云南以至國(guó)內(nèi)都是十分罕見(jiàn)。
  諾鄧如今已成為國(guó)家級(jí)歷史文化名村,凡在中國(guó)大地上見(jiàn)到的寺廟、牌坊、會(huì)館、祠堂、府第、巷道、墓葬……在這個(gè)小小村落里都有,亦是研究中國(guó)古代鹽井文化的活村料?!爸Z鄧”,白族語(yǔ)為“有老虎的山坡”,彝語(yǔ)“黑”為“諾”,林深竹密的溝箐為“鄧(賧)”,意為“林木茂盛的地 方”。這里曾經(jīng)森林茂密,后因煮鹽業(yè),林木漸被砍伐殆盡,現(xiàn)已是光山禿嶺。
  云龍縣下轄10個(gè)鄉(xiāng)鎮(zhèn),果朗鄉(xiāng)為其中之一。這個(gè)鄉(xiāng)位于云龍縣城西北部,是距縣城最近的一個(gè)鄉(xiāng)。果郎鄉(xiāng)共有3個(gè)村公所,其中一個(gè)叫諾鄧村公所,諾鄧村公所占地150平方公里,共有25個(gè)自然村,2000多人口。我們這里所說(shuō)的諾鄧村即為諾鄧村公所下的諾鄧自然村。

  景點(diǎn)信息
  地址:云南大理州云龍縣縣城西北7公里處,諾鄧村
  門票:無(wú)
      電話:云龍縣旅游局 0872-5523287 
  景區(qū)級(jí)別:中國(guó)歷史文化名村、全國(guó)首批“中國(guó)景觀村落”、云南十大旅游古鎮(zhèn)之一。
      相關(guān)網(wǎng)站:http://www.ndly.org/artc-25-205.shtml
  歷史地位:諾鄧在歷史上地位非凡,因?yàn)辂}井帶來(lái)的高稅收,朝廷直接派官員管理,明朝在此設(shè)立了中央直屬單位“五井提舉司”,可以說(shuō)在封建王朝時(shí)期諾鄧是一個(gè)經(jīng)濟(jì)特區(qū)。雖然是個(gè)小村子,卻享受縣一級(jí)的規(guī)格禮制。

景點(diǎn)看點(diǎn)
  諾鄧村現(xiàn)有1項(xiàng)州級(jí)文物保護(hù)單位,24項(xiàng)縣級(jí)文物保護(hù)單位。目前保留著60多座明清時(shí)期的民居建筑、40多座民國(guó)時(shí)期的民居建筑和20多座古廟宇等公共建筑以及5000多米的街巷村道,此外全村還有百年以上的古木200余株,村民家中還保留有上萬(wàn)件的古董文物。

(精美絕倫的欞星門  作者:Mr.Rock)
廟宇建筑群
  諾鄧村深受宗教文化的影響,有玉皇閣、文廟、武廟、龍王廟、欞星門等眾多明清時(shí)期的廟宇建筑,周圍現(xiàn)存廟宇還有東山方向的香山寺、古嶺寺和王母寺,都是兩進(jìn)院式建筑;北面山中有觀音寺等建筑,西南面古道上還有兩道貞節(jié)牌坊。至于古墓、碑刻等建筑則遍布四山。
  玉皇閣建筑群
  玉皇閣建筑群在村子的最高處,海拔2300米。這里古木參天,殿閣如聚,周圍全是高大的古黃連木,樹高多達(dá)三四十米,最古老的樹齡已有800多年。大殿前有欞星門、彌勒寺;后有靜室;殿右有武廟(關(guān)公廟)及文廟(孔廟)等。
  玉皇閣是滇西地區(qū)現(xiàn)存的極少見(jiàn)的三層閣樓式古建筑,始建于明嘉靖年間。主體建筑包括三層閣樓大殿及靜室,古代是著名的道教宮觀,光咸豐時(shí)期曾數(shù)度被焚,后重建。大院內(nèi)有明代的梅樹及翠柏、紫薇、金桂等。大殿頂層上現(xiàn)存的藻井繪畫“二十八星宿圖”可稱為“諾鄧一絕”,在研究中國(guó)古代宇宙觀和天文、藝術(shù)、建筑等方面都有一定的參考價(jià)值。
  欞星門:此門建于明嘉靖年間,今門面尚存。正門最上方大書“騰蛟”二字,反面大書“起風(fēng)”二字,又叫“騰蛟起鳳坊”,它是滇西現(xiàn)存最大的古木牌訪。此門飛檐斗拱,雄奇高大。據(jù)說(shuō),諾鄧的一個(gè)舉人與昆明的舉人在一起談及家鄉(xiāng),昆明舉人夸耀金馬碧雞坊雄壯,諾鄧舉人不服,回到家鄉(xiāng)便仿金馬碧雞坊修建了欞星門,且故意比之高出三尺。此事真實(shí)性難以考究,但它反映出諾鄧鹽業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展的水平和實(shí)力。
  文廟:即孔廟,明代嘉靖年間修建,按明朝禮制,縣一級(jí)地方才有文廟,但諾鄧是個(gè)例外。文廟獨(dú)立成院,有主殿及兩廂房,塑有孔圣人及其七十二賢徒像,是諾鄧人祭孔祈求文化昌盛的場(chǎng)所。但文廟在文革中被毀,僅存空屋,長(zhǎng)期作為諾鄧小學(xué)教室和學(xué)生煮飯場(chǎng)所使用,屋內(nèi)墻壁煙火痕跡尚存,房屋幾近倒塌,無(wú)人管護(hù)。
  龍王廟
  龍王廟遺跡至今尚存,廟屋東端還存有龍王的牌位,已被列為縣文物保護(hù)單位。一般來(lái)說(shuō),祭龍王主要是祈求多雨,而產(chǎn)鹽之地則是祈求少雨,以使鹵水保有較高的濃度。龍王廟前有一古戲臺(tái),為傳統(tǒng)飛檐翹角方型建筑,是村里比較寬平的一塊空地,凡村里大小集會(huì),均在此舉行。
  萬(wàn)壽宮
  萬(wàn)壽宮為明清江西商人在全國(guó)各地所修建的會(huì)館名稱,由此可推知,歷史上這里的鹽業(yè)生產(chǎn)曾為江西商人所經(jīng)營(yíng)。萬(wàn)壽宮的房屋如今已分給村民李文茂居住,現(xiàn)古建筑猶存部份木架結(jié)構(gòu),前樓基本完好,房中至今還留有一點(diǎn)文物。萬(wàn)壽宮曾改名祝壽寺,李文茂家中留存有一塊明嘉靖丙辰提舉李瓊題的修祝壽寺碑文。村中人普遍說(shuō)萬(wàn)壽宮建于元代,初名萬(wàn)壽宮,明代一度改成廟宇,清代又改名萬(wàn)壽宮,但從明代江西商人的活動(dòng)推測(cè),應(yīng)該是建于明代。

(每年冬季是制鹽的日子,主要用于腌制火腿  作者:xy341)
古鹽業(yè)文化建筑
  諾鄧的演變發(fā)展完全依賴于鹽業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)的興衰,由于封建王朝高度重視鹽業(yè)生產(chǎn),村中保存較完整的鹽井、鹽局、鹽課提舉司衙門舊址以及驛路、鹽馬古道等古代建筑,是研究云南古代鹽業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)文化的寶貴活教材。
  古鹽井遺址
  諾鄧鹽井自漢朝開采以來(lái)至今兩千余年,“諾鄧井”之名距今也有一千三百多年,現(xiàn)存鹽井、井房及煮鹽大灶等建筑。鹽井是一口21米深的直井,古代用人工汲水的方法從下面取鹵再分給各家“灶戶”煮鹽。解放后,曾為集體所有,作為社隊(duì)企業(yè)生產(chǎn)食鹽,直到1996年才停產(chǎn)。諾鄧鹽井為筒井。鹽井處共有井口2眼。一眼汲鹵熬鹽,另一眼抽取淡水。在云龍各鹽井中,諾鄧井鹵水含鹽量最高、產(chǎn)量最大。由于無(wú)人照看,2眼井口已為地下水淹沒(méi)而廢棄,只有鹽井旁邊的濕地上還滲出斑斑潔白的鹽漬,表明這里不久前還有過(guò)食鹽的生產(chǎn),這里的鹵水還沒(méi)有全部枯竭。

  國(guó)營(yíng)鹽廠舊址
  這里是解放后國(guó)家和集體生產(chǎn)食鹽的地方,有一間百余平方米的通透式房屋,下有數(shù)個(gè)熬制食鹽的大灶和鐵鍋、鹵水槽等生產(chǎn)工具。自諾鄧的鹽業(yè)停產(chǎn)后,村民在這里淹制諾鄧火腿。當(dāng)跨進(jìn)這個(gè)舊址時(shí),房梁上到處懸掛著布滿潔白鹽粒的諾鄧火腿,使人感受到諾鄧的鹽業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)并沒(méi)有結(jié)束。

  五井鹽課提舉司衙門舊址
  公元1383年明政府在全國(guó)置七個(gè)“鹽課提舉司”,云南就有四個(gè),這里就是其中之一的“五井鹽課提舉司”衙門舊址。后來(lái)提舉司衙門外遷,這里就演變成了諾鄧黃氏家族私宅區(qū),族人乃將原提舉大門改造成登載本家科舉功名的“題名坊”。清代黃氏門中共出兩進(jìn)士、五舉人及上百名秀才,康乾年間舉人黃桂是名噪一時(shí)的飽學(xué)之士,曾被譽(yù)為“滇中一儒杰”。

(諾鄧的古民居形式各異,甚少雷同  作者:佚名)
古民居建筑
  諾鄧目前存有的一百多座依山構(gòu)建、形式多變、風(fēng)格典雅的古代民居院落,主要以明朝和清朝時(shí)期為主,主要分布在村中的山洼和西北陽(yáng)坡上,特別是北山坡,層層疊疊,樓院重接。村中的街巷道路,清一色的石板鋪成,因山就勢(shì),縱橫交錯(cuò)。

  北山主體民居建筑
  現(xiàn)存明、清兩朝古建筑40余個(gè)院落。皆因山就勢(shì)構(gòu)建,層層疊疊,往往是前家后門即通后家大院,且有古街鋪、古市肆等,街向縱橫交錯(cuò)。故又稱“北山重樓”
  黃家宅子:現(xiàn)存民居建筑屬明清時(shí)期所建的約20余處院落,黃氏家族所植三百多年的高山榕,諾鄧人取名叫“萬(wàn)年青”,蔭蓋著古提舉司衙門前的下馬場(chǎng)。
  多臺(tái)院落:因北山民居皆建于陡坡之上,便形成了一種“臺(tái)梯式四合院”,天井之內(nèi)有三、四層臺(tái)面,逐級(jí)上堂,風(fēng)格獨(dú)特。
  袖珍小院:諾鄧村人煙密集而地面有限,很多民居的安排都很緊湊,精巧玲瓏。北山一戶人家的小四合院天井面積只有一平方米多一點(diǎn),堪稱袖珍小院。

  河?xùn)|民居建筑群
  現(xiàn)存明清建筑30余個(gè)院落。其中“四合五天井”為全村最大的民宅。
  四合五天井:院中間一個(gè)大天井,四邊有四個(gè)小天井,上房、耳房、面房都設(shè)有堂屋,四面樓房相通可巡回來(lái)往,即“走馬轉(zhuǎn)角樓”結(jié)構(gòu)。
  貢爺家風(fēng):河?xùn)|貢爺院前堂有清代中期遺留的屋梁焚燒痕跡,傳說(shuō)是無(wú)人在家時(shí)大樓失火但僅焚毀一梁即自滅,該貢生即以此保留作代代家教樣本,告誡后人須重視文化、遵守禮樂(lè)、行義好善。

  河頭民居建筑
  現(xiàn)存明清建筑約10余處,其中“銀匠家”等院落建筑古老、特殊,建于300多年前。
  銀匠舊居:明末以來(lái),楊氏家族的銀制工藝名聲遠(yuǎn)播,銀匠舊居在河頭一帶比較古舊,為明末所建。

  其他民居
  屋檐五滴:諾鄧民居其四合院異于平原地區(qū)。正房與廂(耳)房、面房高低錯(cuò)落不在一個(gè)平面,故形成了前后左右屋面瓦檐上下層層遞接的“五滴水四合院”或“四滴水”、“六滴水”等屋檐現(xiàn)象,全村這類院落十分普遍。
  進(jìn)士家雕:清乾隆間進(jìn)士黃紹魁舊居有精致的木雕圖案,尤以中堂正上方的“黃榜題名榮歸故里”圖及“麒麟探花、雙鳳朝陽(yáng)”書案為珍品。
  窗欞百式:諾鄧村古建筑中窗欞格式達(dá)數(shù)百種之多,尤以菱花式、書條式、萬(wàn)字式的變形居多。至今每幢民居中都可見(jiàn)到風(fēng)格多樣的古代精致木窗。
  花雕大門:白族民居非常重視大門建筑的美觀大方,諾鄧村民各家大門頭上的木雕圖案十分精致,且形式各異,一家不同于一家,其形式內(nèi)容一般都反映著主人的身份地位和文化修養(yǎng)。
  道長(zhǎng)月臺(tái):明清以來(lái)道教在諾鄧地區(qū)影響較大,清末民初一位著名道長(zhǎng)的家宅舊址,其建筑特色是院內(nèi)有一般民居都不可能有的庭前月臺(tái),在此可作法事或彈演洞經(jīng)等。

其他值得看景點(diǎn)
  黃霞昌家庭生態(tài)博物館
  村民黃永壽辦了一家家庭博物館,一是受大理博物館的委托,二是自己家里寶貝比較多。黃家在仕途和商途上都曾經(jīng)輝煌過(guò),黃永壽祖上是諾鄧井有名的鹽產(chǎn)業(yè)大戶,500多年來(lái),黃氏家族共出秀才百余人、貢生26人、舉人4人、進(jìn)士2人,有“復(fù)甲留芳”之美譽(yù),家里便累積下來(lái)很多寶貝,現(xiàn)存250多件藝術(shù)珍品。在諾鄧,幾乎每家每戶都有些歷史背景和價(jià)值不斐的古董。為了保護(hù)當(dāng)?shù)匚幕罄碇輿Q定以家庭為單位建立“家庭生態(tài)博物館”,這在全國(guó)尚屬首例。
  電話:15894568508 15887364404
  講解費(fèi):5元/人

周邊景點(diǎn)

(太極鎖水的自然奇觀  作者:米綾瑪)
  太極鎖水
  從云龍縣城去諾鄧路上,距諾鄧3公里左右會(huì)經(jīng)過(guò)“太極鎖水”的天然奇觀。諾鄧河在與瀾滄江支流沘江交匯的地方,繞了一個(gè)“S”型的大彎,形成了類似道教“太極圖”的天然地貌奇觀,古人稱之為“太極鎖水”。從遠(yuǎn)處看,云蒸霞蔚,四周群峰環(huán)繞拱衛(wèi),真有萬(wàn)山朝拜之勢(shì),雖然這只是地質(zhì)構(gòu)造運(yùn)動(dòng)中通過(guò)河流深切形成的特殊地貌,但后來(lái)人們賦予它許多神奇的傳說(shuō)和故事,成為一個(gè)天生的道教文化符號(hào)。
  地址:云龍縣區(qū)諾鄧的路上

   天池
  天池距諾鄧29公里,距縣城22多公里,目前沒(méi)有直通車,需要到客運(yùn)站邊包車去。這個(gè)海拔2552米的高山湖泊,四周森林茂密、植被完好,共有高等植物60多科200余種,還有國(guó)家二、三級(jí)保護(hù)動(dòng)物19種。秀麗的湖光山色和繁茂的森林草甸使天池風(fēng)景無(wú)比旖旎迷人。
  地址:
  門票:10元

  云龍“橋梁博物館”
  “橋梁博物館”不是常規(guī)意義的博物館,只是形容古橋多。古時(shí)云龍的鹽不但要供給滇西各地,而且遠(yuǎn)銷東南亞。為方便馬幫運(yùn)輸,云龍縣從唐朝開始在穿境而過(guò)的瀾滄江和沘江上建造了一百多座風(fēng)格各異的橋梁,故自稱為“橋梁藝術(shù)博物館”。但古橋分布極其分散,松水藤橋在白石鄉(xiāng)、通金橋在長(zhǎng)新鄉(xiāng)、砥柱橋在寶豐鄉(xiāng)、飛龍橋和功果橋在舊州鄉(xiāng),還有彩鳳橋、青云橋等,最好包車游覽。

諾鄧古村出游地圖


諾鄧古村位置圖(點(diǎn)擊看大圖)

諾鄧古村手繪導(dǎo)游圖

諾鄧古村當(dāng)?shù)亟煌?/h3>

  諾鄧比較偏遠(yuǎn),在2007年諾鄧通公路之前,諾鄧與縣城唯一的聯(lián)系是那條走了千年的鹽馬古道,也正交通不便得以保存千年古村的原始風(fēng)貌。諾鄧離云龍縣城有8公里,距州府大理有175公里,距省會(huì)昆明500公里。提醒:昆明到大理交通,終點(diǎn)站都是下關(guān)(大理新城區(qū))。

公共交通(需先到大理)
  飛機(jī)
  昆明和大理都有機(jī)場(chǎng),距諾鄧最近的是大理機(jī)場(chǎng),但大理的航班少且貴,經(jīng)濟(jì)情況一般的游客建議飛昆明,在網(wǎng)上提前訂票更合算。
  大理機(jī)場(chǎng)目前通航的城市有北京、上海、天津、昆明、廣州、成都等。大理機(jī)場(chǎng)到下關(guān)城區(qū)約12公里,機(jī)場(chǎng)沒(méi)有大巴,出租車到下關(guān)統(tǒng)一收費(fèi)50元。機(jī)場(chǎng)電話: 0872-2428955
  昆明長(zhǎng)水國(guó)際機(jī)場(chǎng)有通往全國(guó)大部分城市的航線。機(jī)場(chǎng)到市中心6公里,機(jī)場(chǎng)大巴、公交車、出租車均可到達(dá)。機(jī)場(chǎng)電話:0871-96566
  火車
  大理火車站主要通達(dá)昆明、麗江兩地,省外的游客需做到昆明,昆明只有一個(gè)火車客運(yùn)站,即昆明站。詳細(xì)了解:http://www.12306.cn/mormhweb/
  昆明到大理有6趟列車,約7—8小時(shí),建議坐夜車(臥鋪),一覺(jué)醒來(lái)就到大理火車站了。
  客車
  汽車是云南主要的交通方式,云南十八怪,火車沒(méi)有汽車快,所以汽車是進(jìn)出大理最方便、最經(jīng)濟(jì)的選擇。在昆明西部客運(yùn)站有去大理的車。
  大理有五個(gè)汽車客運(yùn)站,昆明到大理的車??康攸c(diǎn)不一,直快停在大理快速客運(yùn)站,高快、小車一般停在興盛客運(yùn)站或新東站,還有一些臥鋪車會(huì)停在火車站邊上。

  到達(dá)諾鄧
  大理到諾鄧目前只有一種方案,在下關(guān)興盛客運(yùn)站坐汽車到云龍縣城(7:10-16:30,40分鐘1趟,44元),約3小時(shí)。
  在云龍坐三輪摩托到諾鄧,半小時(shí),三輪包車20元,遇趕集日人多時(shí)5元/人。

自駕車
  大理方向:從下關(guān)上大保高速公路,駕車大約40公里,從躍進(jìn)口出高速公路,沿320國(guó)道前進(jìn),在黃連鋪轉(zhuǎn)上227省道,到云龍縣城,從縣城沿蘭坪方向的公路行3公里,過(guò)一座大吊橋,再行3公里水泥路就到諾鄧了。
  大理下關(guān)至諾鄧約150公里,自駕車2個(gè)半小時(shí)。云龍距諾鄧約7公里,是土夾碎石路,轎車可以通過(guò)。
  諾鄧村內(nèi)皆是臺(tái)階、石板路,只行馬不通車,各式交通只能到諾鄧村口,下車后步行進(jìn)入諾鄧村,諾鄧村口有小型停車場(chǎng)。

諾鄧古村當(dāng)?shù)刈∷?/h3>


(諾鄧古村民居的小院子  作者:流浪的歌)
  諾鄧村目前大約有六家客棧,一般是在當(dāng)?shù)孛窬又薪?jīng)營(yíng),吃住一體。民居都有百年歷史,各家都有天井院子、露天餐桌等,住的是百年老屋,吃的是陳年火腿。各家腌制的火腿懸掛在老屋子房梁上,像古裝劇的場(chǎng)景。每家衛(wèi)生條件和硬件設(shè)施稍有參差,到村子后可以打電話給客棧,客棧都會(huì)有人來(lái)接。
  大青樹客棧(古村吃住店)
  推薦理由:客棧在大青樹旁邊,主人是村子唯一的老中醫(yī),出自五代中醫(yī)世家,凡入住本店客人均可免費(fèi)問(wèn)診、看病。還有特色草藥泡腳、睡前養(yǎng)生針灸等。
  電話:15288113286
  價(jià)格:標(biāo)間100—150元;單人間80元;床位40元/人。餐飲50元/人。

  諾鄧五滴水客棧
      推薦理由:離停車場(chǎng)最近的一個(gè)客棧,在停車場(chǎng)旁邊古戲臺(tái)和龍王廟背后??蜅J敲髑鍟r(shí)期的白族民居四合院,有兩百年的歷史,老板是本地白族人。下雨時(shí),雨水需要經(jīng)過(guò)四層錯(cuò)落有致的屋檐面,滴五次,才落到天井,故稱五滴水四合院。
  電話:13769218514
  價(jià)格:兩人間60元;單人間30元。餐飲20元/人。

  復(fù)甲留芳苑客棧
  推薦理由:客棧是在村子偏高的位置,需要爬臺(tái)階,有特色大通鋪。飲食比較地道,掌勺人黃大媽做菜手藝在諾鄧遠(yuǎn)近聞名,是黃霞昌家庭博物館的主人,可點(diǎn)餐,亦可拼餐,豐儉由己。
  電話:18313166264 0872-5525032
  價(jià)格:兩人間99元;床位30元/人。餐飲30元左右/人。

  古道坊客棧
  推薦理由:客棧在村西邊中央位置,客棧建筑很有特色,為當(dāng)?shù)匚ㄒ坏暮咸菔剿暮显?,院落的各種裝飾物件也是收來(lái)的古物,同這個(gè)兩百多年的院子融為一體。
  電話:13508868076
  價(jià)格:標(biāo)間120—160元;床位30、40元。餐飲40元左右/人。

諾鄧古村當(dāng)?shù)仫嬍?/h3>


(地道的諾鄧本土菜中不可缺少諾鄧火腿和土雞  作者:佚名)
  說(shuō)到諾鄧的飲食,不得不提諾鄧火腿,在諾鄧,每家每戶都能用諾鄧火腿烹制出幾十多種菜肴,但因?yàn)榈靥幧钌?,趕集需要到縣城,除了火腿,其他的飲食也都是平常家常菜。飲食一般在住宿地解決,除了上面介紹的客棧提供飲食,停車場(chǎng)附近還有一家只供餐飲不設(shè)住宿的店:
  鹽泉農(nóng)家
  推薦理由:該農(nóng)家主做餐飲,有土雞火鍋、火腿宴等招牌菜,火腿宴是以諾鄧火腿為主菜,配以火腿烹制的各式菜肴,一桌600元,6—9人量。
  電話: 0872-5525111
  價(jià)格:人均25元

當(dāng)?shù)靥厣朗臣疤禺a(chǎn)
  諾鄧的農(nóng)作物主要是玉米和豌豆,其他的菜要出去買,或者山上找野生菜。洋芋是隔山村子種的,每周五用馬馱來(lái)賣,翻山越嶺,需走7個(gè)多小時(shí),天沒(méi)亮出發(fā),中午左右才能到諾鄧。因諾鄧近幾年逐漸受到關(guān)注,村中一些幾近消失的特色飲食也恢復(fù)了。

(據(jù)說(shuō)在火腿廠買火腿會(huì)便宜很多,火腿廠每天都要接多個(gè)訂貨電話  作者:佚名)
  諾鄧火腿、諾鄧鹽
  因《舌尖上的中國(guó)》而揚(yáng)名天下,一般是家家腌制,用的是諾鄧自產(chǎn)的井鹽,肉采用天然飼料喂養(yǎng)大的豬的后腿,腌制后隔年食用,三年可生食。過(guò)去只用它作禮物,而今市場(chǎng)上也可買到了,現(xiàn)在養(yǎng)豬、腌肉、賣火腿仍是諾鄧人營(yíng)生的手段之一。在諾鄧古鎮(zhèn),你去任何一家,推開院門,都能看見(jiàn)在院內(nèi)一處陰涼下懸掛的火腿??雌饋?lái)粗糙,吃起來(lái)美味。但火腿好吃不易制,“千年等一腿”,一句廣告語(yǔ)道出了諾鄧火腿制作過(guò)程的長(zhǎng)期性。諾鄧火腿屬于“物以稀為貴”的典范,腌制完成一只火腿需要不少時(shí)間和心血。即便是現(xiàn)在,火腿的產(chǎn)量每年也只有不到100噸,無(wú)法滿足慕名前來(lái)的食客們的胃口。
  諾鄧的農(nóng)戶家都有火腿出售,比如客棧里,一般整只火腿在500—700元,論斤算是50—60元/斤,因部位不同,價(jià)格不同。《舌尖上的中國(guó)》讓諾鄧火腿聞名全國(guó),諾鄧火腿之所以好吃,是因?yàn)殡缰苹鹜鹊柠}巴。那鹽是從村里一口千年鹽井里來(lái)的。村里人家都有筒鹽出售。
  豆餅
  豆餅是諾鄧的特產(chǎn),現(xiàn)在極少有人做,后因游客漸多,村中也恢復(fù)了諾鄧特產(chǎn)豆餅的生產(chǎn)。制作原料是上好糯米、刺莢、灰挑桿、魔芋、扁豆桿、紅糖等。制成2毫米厚左右的薄圓餅涼干即成。食用時(shí)用香油煎,其特點(diǎn)是香、脆、糯、甜。
  油粉湯
  與麗江特色小吃雞豆涼粉原理一樣,以豌豆為原料,豌豆磨成漿,過(guò)濾、澄粉。豆粉沉淀時(shí),上層粉舀出做成湯,即油粉湯。下層粉比較黏稠,小火稍熬,晾涼后即是豌豆涼粉,切塊拌上佐料,口感與藕粉相像。
  血腸
  用豆腐、紅曲、鮮豬血、草果粉、茴香粉、鹽攪拌均勻后灌入洗干凈的豬大腸中,灌好后用細(xì)繩扎成6寸左右的小段,干燥、陰涼、通風(fēng)后20天即可食用,其特點(diǎn)是鮮嫩馨香?! ?

諾鄧古村行程規(guī)劃


(諾鄧個(gè)各景點(diǎn)都有指示牌,非常方便  作者:蟲蟲)
  游覽諾鄧古村一般需要2個(gè)多小時(shí),對(duì)古跡有興趣的常常在這里住幾天,村中各主要景點(diǎn)都有指示牌,便于游覽。
  諾鄧位于兩山之間,依山而建,一條小溪(諾鄧河)由東北向西南流過(guò)村子,把村子一分為二,半坡上的大青樹是古村的中心。從村口到大青樹有兩條路,石頭鋪就的古道,恰好構(gòu)成一道步行環(huán)線。一條是由村口過(guò)河,沿著石頭步道向上,走到大青樹約10分鐘,路陡;另一條是經(jīng)過(guò)龍王廟、鹽井等景點(diǎn)到大青樹,沿途有多處古民居可參觀,路緩。村子最高處是玉皇閣建筑群。村民都知道些歷史背景,不懂之處可以向村民請(qǐng)教。
  冬季是諾鄧村民開始制鹽的季節(jié),這時(shí)各家也開始腌制火腿了,如果湊巧,可以看到很熱鬧的場(chǎng)面。諾鄧在山坳里,沒(méi)有地光污染,星空也很美。

  當(dāng)?shù)刈⒁馐马?xiàng)
  1.諾鄧盛產(chǎn)鹽業(yè),也是個(gè)很缺水的村子,建議大家節(jié)約用水。
  2.當(dāng)?shù)厝撕軣崆榇緲悖皇巧晕⒆⒁庳埞肺孟x。
  3.衣物可帶長(zhǎng)袖衣物,以保夜晚防寒。
  4.諾鄧是白族居住地,注意尊重少數(shù)民族習(xí)慣。
  5.村中集市每月“趕”四次,逢初一、十五“趕大街”,初八、二十三為“趕小街”。

諾鄧古村其他信息


(一個(gè)因鹽業(yè)發(fā)展起來(lái)的小村落,曾是鹽馬古道的重鎮(zhèn)  作者:元吾的世界)
關(guān)于諾鄧
       諾鄧的歷史和發(fā)展

  “諾鄧”村名見(jiàn)諸于史籍已經(jīng)有1138年的歷史,歷經(jīng)唐、宋、元、明、清各代王朝,它在古代可是個(gè)了不得的地方。唐代樊綽的《蠻書》中已經(jīng)對(duì)諾鄧有明確記載,此書的成書年代在唐懿宗咸通三年,即公元862年。以此推算,諾鄧至今至少應(yīng)該有1140年以上的歷史。這就是說(shuō),這里最遲在唐朝就已經(jīng)鑿井制鹽,是一個(gè)典型的以鹽井為生存依托的村落。
  “諾鄧”這個(gè)名稱一直延續(xù)至今。諾鄧過(guò)去一般稱為“諾鄧井”或“諾井”?!熬本褪躯}井。根據(jù)云南史料記載,云南井礦鹽業(yè)在秦漢時(shí)期就已產(chǎn)生。從西漢至南北朝時(shí)期,云龍為比蘇縣,漢朝設(shè)置比蘇縣的根本原因就是這個(gè)地方產(chǎn)鹽。
  從有明確記述的唐代開始,諾鄧村的演變發(fā)展完全依賴于鹽業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)的興衰。南詔時(shí)期“細(xì)諾鄧井”的鹽業(yè)生產(chǎn)已經(jīng)具備了相當(dāng)?shù)囊?guī)模。公元1383年,明政府設(shè)云南四提舉司,其中有“五井鹽課提舉司”,治所即在諾鄧,所謂五井即指諾鄧井、山井、師井、大井、頃蕩井。到明朝中后期,五井提舉司年上繳中央政府的鹽課銀達(dá)38000多兩。李元陽(yáng)纂《嘉靖大理府志》記載:“后開五井,始分行鹽地方臺(tái)井之鹽,專行大理;五井之鹽,專行永昌”。可見(jiàn)諾鄧等五井地區(qū)所產(chǎn)食鹽在滇西早已負(fù)有盛名?!队赫讫堉葜尽酚洠骸爸Z鄧、順蕩(鹽)味更咸,不必澆灶,而遂能成沙”。因諾鄧鹽質(zhì)非比尋常,保山、騰沖一帶自古以來(lái)都十分喜歡食用“諾鹽”。由于鹽業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)的發(fā)達(dá),諾鄧村歷史上曾一度成為滇西地區(qū)的商業(yè)中心之一,在《嘉靖大理府志》所列市肆中地位重要。古代諾鄧的“茶馬古道”,東向大理昆明,甫至保山騰沖,西接六庫(kù)片馬,北連蘭坪麗江,四方商賈云集,百業(yè)昌盛。諾鄧村歷史上曾一度成為滇西地區(qū)的商業(yè)中心之一。
  諾鄧如今已成為國(guó)家級(jí)歷史文化名村,影響力在不斷增強(qiáng)。諾鄧人口最多時(shí)曾有兩千多戶常住人口,流動(dòng)人口六七千,是個(gè)繁華的村子,而今村中經(jīng)濟(jì)瀟條,人口大量外流,村中只剩下300來(lái)戶。所幸自2000年來(lái)村子倍受關(guān)注,好多將失傳的東西得到搶救。

(諾鄧人才輩出,圖為黃氏家族的提名坊  作者:林堅(jiān))

  諾鄧“盛產(chǎn)”進(jìn)士、秀才
  盡管云龍地處偏僻,交通不便,但明、清兩朝還是文風(fēng)蔚然、人才輩出。諾鄧村的科舉,在云龍中“進(jìn)士”的為最多(清代三人中諾鄧就有二人),舉人、貢生和秀才則不勝枚舉,目前僅從幾戶諾鄧人家族譜上查實(shí)的貢生就有40余名,秀才則有200多人。如村中有一楊姓人家號(hào)稱“貢爺院”,世代均系貢生出生。清代康乾年間,諾鄧村舉人黃桂是聲噪一時(shí)的文化名人,被譽(yù)為“滇中一儒杰”,云南最早的詩(shī)歌總集《滇南詩(shī)略》曾收選黃桂詩(shī)詞數(shù)首。在儒家文化的熏陶下,諾鄧舊時(shí)尊孔習(xí)俗相當(dāng)濃郁,諾鄧的孔廟建筑精巧,尤以大成殿規(guī)格嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)細(xì)密,每年祭孔活動(dòng)規(guī)模都十分隆重,縟禮繁節(jié),傳統(tǒng)的儒門意識(shí)形態(tài)在諾鄧村的反映非常明顯。

  諾鄧民居特色
  諾鄧民居建筑式樣與大理的白族民居相似,有“三房一照壁”、“四合一天井”、“四合五天井”等建筑布局,但因依山而建,構(gòu)思奇巧變化,風(fēng)格也呈多樣性,上家的門口往往和下家的房頂同高。民居尤講求蓋門樓,通常蓋門樓的形式有“一滴水”,即為普通的坡屋,樸素大方;“三滴水”,則顯現(xiàn)了一種華麗,其建筑精美,飛檐翹角,最高的達(dá)到五滴水。
  諾鄧的民居很講究工藝美術(shù),門、窗、木梁、柱、檐上的雕刻圖案精細(xì)美觀,山墻、院墻上均有繪畫或圖案,每戶人家的正房、廂房或照壁的布置和工藝,各具特色,各有千秋,絕少雷同。很多人家至今還保留著明清時(shí)代的一些家具、古董。

  多民族融合的白族大家庭
  諾鄧村民素有“九楊十八姓”的說(shuō)法。自元、明以來(lái),南京、浙江、福建、湖南、江西、山西等地陸續(xù)有移民或因經(jīng)商仕宦之故遷來(lái),在同當(dāng)?shù)卦【用袢趨R結(jié)合后,形成了諾鄧村現(xiàn)有居民諸家族。從這些家族族譜分析,最先到諾鄧居住的各家族先人去世后均為火葬。經(jīng)過(guò)幾代人同原住民的融匯,他們既保持著內(nèi)地的傳統(tǒng)習(xí)俗,也同當(dāng)?shù)氐闹黧w民族--白族結(jié)合為一個(gè)新的群體,因此,清代至今,諾鄧村民已全部成為白族居民,他們一直都保持著完整的白族語(yǔ)言和白族風(fēng)俗特征。如在宗教信仰上,白族的本主崇拜在諾鄧村仍十分有影響,諾鄧的本主是明朝三征麓川的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)人王驥,稱為“三崇”。除了“本主信仰”,諾鄧村“三教一體”的特征也十分明顯,信奉佛教,也信奉道教,尤其是在宗教活動(dòng)和廟宇建筑上,道教的特點(diǎn)更為突出。諾鄧村廟宇建筑在康乾時(shí)期甚為鼎盛,至今猶存玉皇閣廟宇建筑群及香山寺、古嶺寺、云崇寺、觀音寺、王母寺、龍王廟等,而村里舊時(shí)舉行的祭祀、迎神賽會(huì)、接祖、節(jié)慶典禮等諸多活動(dòng)都帶有儒道兩門特色。

(諾鄧人對(duì)儒家文化幾近癡迷,圖為孔子文化節(jié),村民自發(fā)祭拜孔子  作者:佚名)

  宗教文化
  在諾鄧的傳統(tǒng)文化寶庫(kù)中,宗教文化是個(gè)重要的組成部份。它歷史久遠(yuǎn),內(nèi)容豐富,滲透于生產(chǎn)生活的各個(gè)領(lǐng)域,以致形成習(xí)俗。1、本主信仰。本主崇拜是諾鄧村民最早和固有的宗教信仰,它從遠(yuǎn)古時(shí)期宗教的早期形式自然崇拜發(fā)展到崇信天鬼的原始宗教,進(jìn)而達(dá)到人為宗教階段。諾鄧本主是“敕封五井土主護(hù)國(guó)安民圣帝”,總管本村生產(chǎn)生活、生死禍福,穿著帝王服飾和娘娘平排同座于三崇廟,兩側(cè)塑文武判官。2、尊儒祀孔。明初諾鄧有了孔子塑像,到清初修成了崇圣宮,古代每到農(nóng)歷八月二十七日,全村人都要在這里舉行隆重的祭孔活動(dòng),至于因上學(xué)趕考,入泮中試來(lái)祭拜的各地學(xué)子則你來(lái)我往,絡(luò)繹不絕。3、奉釋禮佛。佛教從唐宋以來(lái)直至清末曾在諾鄧盛行一時(shí),村內(nèi)外曾修建過(guò)許多佛寺廟堂。在諾鄧,儒釋道三教合一的信仰一直是民間崇拜的主要內(nèi)容。4、崇道修齋。在諾鄧儒釋道三教合一信仰中,流傳最廣泛的是道教文化。禮斗會(huì)是道教每年六月和九月舉行的朝禮南北斗的重大活動(dòng)。古代諾鄧道教除玉皇閣曾有頭陀羽士,云集其間外,還有很多的“火居道”。5、談演洞經(jīng)。諾鄧村談演洞經(jīng)是一種用音樂(lè)形式和禮儀程式進(jìn)行的宗教活動(dòng),形式雖近乎儒家禮樂(lè),但從經(jīng)文內(nèi)容貫穿的因果報(bào)應(yīng),積德安和等思想及所崇奉的神靈來(lái)看,基本上仍是三教合一的范疇。

白族相關(guān)風(fēng)俗及禁忌
  白族服飾
  云龍白族婦女服飾的主要特點(diǎn)是突出線條美及適用性。婦女頭上帶有白色、蘭色或黑色的大包頭,一般長(zhǎng)度2—3米,戴在頭上既可遮太陽(yáng)又可避雨,必要時(shí)可解下來(lái)作背帶用。上身穿前短后長(zhǎng)的大襟衫,布的色彩根據(jù)各人的喜好而定,下身穿大禪褲,腰系繡花圍腰,體現(xiàn)人體的線條美。而圍腰必須時(shí)將兩角編入腰部成了一個(gè)大包包,可用來(lái)裝物件。云龍白族男子上身穿有領(lǐng)對(duì)襟衣,下穿長(zhǎng)管大統(tǒng)褲,布料色彩根據(jù)各人的喜好而制作,男服美觀大方,穿上顯得更瀟灑。但諾鄧村多數(shù)白族婦女的服飾一般都與漢族地區(qū)的差不多。
  白族相關(guān)禁忌
  1、賓客來(lái)家時(shí),倒茶一般只倒半杯,倒酒則需滿杯,他們認(rèn)為酒滿敬人,茶滿欺人。受到白族人熱情的款待,應(yīng)說(shuō)聲挪衛(wèi)你 (謝謝)來(lái)表示你的謝意和感激之情。
  2、起床后的第一杯早茶要先敬給老人。吃飯時(shí)要讓老人坐上席,由老人先動(dòng)筷子。在老人面前不說(shuō)臟話,不準(zhǔn)蹺二郎腿。
  3、落座時(shí),男性長(zhǎng)輩坐左上方,女性長(zhǎng)輩坐右上方,客人和晚輩坐下方和上方。不得亂坐。
  4、白族人家的火塘是個(gè)神圣的地方,忌諱向火塘內(nèi)吐口水,禁止從火塘上跨過(guò)。
  5、尊敬長(zhǎng)輩是白族的傳統(tǒng)美德。見(jiàn)到老人要主動(dòng)打招呼、問(wèn)候、讓道、讓座、端茶、遞煙。
  6、白族人家的門檻不能坐。
  7、男人所用的工具,忌婦女從上面跨過(guò)。

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  2、遵守法律,不參與非法文物買賣;
  3、尊重當(dāng)?shù)鼐用?,尊重?dāng)?shù)厣罘绞胶惋L(fēng)俗習(xí)慣;
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諾鄧古村當(dāng)?shù)匾曨l


《舌尖上的中國(guó)》之《自然的饋贈(zèng)》

千年白族村—諾鄧

諾鄧古村出游參考


(《遙遠(yuǎn)的諾鄧》開機(jī)儀式設(shè)在諾鄧  作者:佚名)
  電影《遙遠(yuǎn)的諾鄧》
  《遙遠(yuǎn)的諾鄧》是一部以反應(yīng)大理白族群眾保護(hù)傳統(tǒng)文化為主題的民族電影,顏丹晨在影片中飾演了一個(gè)學(xué)習(xí)美術(shù),并到了諾鄧深山支教的白族姑娘櫻子。后來(lái)櫻子漸漸被諾鄧吸引,并為這里的文化而折服,最終利用自己的特長(zhǎng)保護(hù)了諾鄧古學(xué)堂。
  紀(jì)錄片《舌尖上的中國(guó)》
  在《舌尖上的中國(guó)》第一集《自然的饋贈(zèng)》中,有一段6分鐘長(zhǎng)的關(guān)于云南諾鄧火腿的影像,介紹了諾鄧火腿的制作、與諾鄧鹽之間的相互關(guān)系,除了新鮮的食材,有時(shí)成就美食的調(diào)味料也同樣來(lái)自于自然。正是這短短的6分鐘,讓諾鄧火腿瞬間名聲大噪。

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